Monthly Archive for September, 2010

South America #4

As we drove up the valley towards Las Leñas, the hillsides were scalped of their snow. Rocks and grass filled the landscape with spotted snow fields that were protected from the northern sun. Las Leñas, like any resort around the world, is at the mersey of Mother Nature and this season was tough on the southern ski resorts. However, the sunset filled the sky and lit the mountain tops that loomed majestically all around us. Having been fortunate enough to travel around North America and much of Europe, I have seen and experienced many great mountain ranges, but something about the Andes speaks to you like no place else. The vastness and undiscovered nature carries a certain allure. In Europe the mountains are developed with farms and roads everywhere, as well as trams to the tops of peaks. In North America everything is spread out and reasonably accessible. However, the Andes are just massive and relatively untouched, yet in the middle of this vast landscape sits Las Leñas. Hundreds of miles from the nearest established town, and six hours from Mendoza. Amidst this great solitude sits this resort at the base of some 16,000’ peaks with four star accommodations and arguably some of the greatest lift service skiing in the world.

Pulling up to our hotel we were excited to say the least. Right on the hill, ski-in-ski-out, the Acuario was plush and the people working at the hotel were great. Right from the minute we arrived there was a smiling face there to help. Recently renovated and decorated with a new age flare, the warm atmosphere kept us close as the lobby bar is about as relaxing as it gets. However, take note as the nights in Argentina can catch up with you fast given that they start late and stay up even later.

Once we got settled in and woke in the morning I was excited to hear the reactions of the rest of the group. The mountains as we were driving in were great, but as we pulled up to the resort the sun had set and the others never say the true magic around them. Mouths wide open, we got our gear together after an amazing breakfast at the hotel and headed up. Having not skied for over five months, it was a little different at first, but like the aggressive and precocious group that we were, “Edwardos” which is the main face above the resort was our first run. It was a sunny morning, and with a storm on the way, so we had to take advantage of the weather while we could. After riding the “Marte,” which seemingly takes you to the moon, we were on top of the world.

270° views of the Andes and it looked like the earth was covered with mountains for as far as we could see. I am not sure how graceful any of us were, but lets just say it was a long first day, as 2500ft descents on the first day of the season is enough to beat up anyones legs. The snow was shaky considering the low amount of precipitation they had received this year, but the rumors of a storm hitting the next morning were mulling around the village.

None-the-less, it was a fantastic first day of the season and we got some great turns.
So, there is only one way to make sure it snows and with a storm on the forecast we hit the night life. Tired yet high on endorphins after a great day, we headed out for some Argentinian fun.

South America #3

Day four of our southern hemisphere ski adventure and it is time to head to the resort. The resort is called Las Leñas, where Vail Resorts has negotiated a deal to make the EPIC pass valid year round. If you were looking for the perpetual ski pass, or Endless EPIC as it has been dubbed, now you can ski with one pass in two different hemispheres, year round. So, while the last few days of our travel have been full of exploration and incredible experiences , it is time to ski. We packed our gear in to the van and prepared for the journey south.

The trip to Las Leñas from Mendoza can be slightly daunting without the proper negotiations and prior planning. The vast open spaces that fill the mid regions of Argentina are arid, yet nothing short of beautiful and mystifying. The climate and weather alike rely on the massive Andes mountains that fill the skyline to the west as you travel south along a double lane road (Highway 40) going to what seems like nowhere. Traveling from village to village with nothing but desert, ranches, and the periodic vineyard filling the space between, the journey is an adventure but worth the time, because time passes effortlessly with the Andes filling the skyline.

On our way however we got a little tired and need to stretch our legs. So our chaperon, driver, and new friend “Gator” pulled a move that you can only get away with in South America. Without hesitation, he and cutoff a police car to get them to stop. Apparently that is how you get directions down here, but without any vacillation he walked right up to their car and asked where we could find a local soccer field. A few moments later we pulled up to the quintessential South American “football” field complete with wooden goal frames, a dirt pitch, and a trash pile in the corner. Strewn about the field were pieces of broken glass and other hazards, that to our overprotective country would have been a concern, but after a few minutes of talking to the kids one boy had already ran home and retrieved a ball and the game was on. Gringos, and all the little kids, vs. the rest. The game was a little lopsided considering after just a few moments we had the impression a bunch of Pele and Beckham proteges were about to teach some gringos a lesson, however we gave it our best effort and it was the perfect break to our drive. Both teams scored some goals and with the neighborhood coming out to see the gringos play, it was an experience we will never forget. Surrounded on three sides with brick walls, an irrigation ditch only two feet behind the northern goal, the Andes mountains in the background, and thirty kids running around with smiles on their faces made for some great photos and memories for us all.

When were finished we got some sodas, local neighborhood roasted chicken, and bread for the kids to eat some lunch before we hit the road. A little tired and smelling like we had just played soccer for an hour in a dusty field, we eagerly laughed and reflected about the invigorating experience as we headed south. Back on the road our day was far from over however. Gator had a shortcut in mind for us, and next thing we found out was that our driver used to be a rally car driver. Not far down the road we took a right and left the pavement and sanctuary of any sort of civilization. Needless to say when we hit the dirt the speed increased which non of us were used to, but along the way before we arrived at Las Leñas shortly after we came across a reservoir, sheep, horses, cattle, and so many views of incredible mountains I am worried how long it will take me to edit them all from my camera.

South America #2

After talking with Maria and Alejandro, followed by a thirty second phone call, and apparently we had a guy picking us up at the airport for the next day. We did not know who, but apparently their friend, family member, and go-to-guy was going to pick us up and show us some of the sights around Mendoza for the next few days.

Well, go-to-guy may be an understatement as Pablo, or “Gator” as he is known, turned out to be the game changing play in our trip. Gator met us at the airport ready to take on the world. He spoke only a few words of English, but with Patrick’s spanish expertise we had no problems communicating as Gator’s gregarious demeanor and enthusiastic inclination to assure our experience was unique made conveyance tantamount as a smile explains more then words can reveal.

After picking us up at the airport, Gator drove us to the Hotel Villaggio in the heart of Mendoza so we could get settled in. A quaint and contemporary boutique hotel, where yet again our accommodations were far more then we expected. Wood floors, white linens, and a complimentary bottle of local wine greeted our astonished unanticipated skier expectations. For the next two days we traveled around parts of Mendoza that I am pretty sure only the locals and those whom live on the particular streets even know exists. We experienced a local tour that some spend years trying to explore. A morning at the Rutini Vineyards followed by a trip to the Termas Cacheuta hot springs based in the foothills of the Andes mountains made for the perfect Mendoza Experience. We met prominent Bodega architect, Eliana Bormida, who gave us the inside knowledge on vineyard design and the day finished with Gator himself inviting us to his house for dinner. After sampling local meats and vegetables until we insisted we could eat no more, it was clear that we had met the most kind person in the world. Gator did all the bargaining, guiding, and inner working of our trip for us. Most of all, he took a compassionate interest in our wellbeing having never met us before. The friendliness of the Latino culture came shining through and we felt at home, even in this strange land.

Tomorrow we take off to Las Leñas. 5 hours and we hope the weather is a little more like winter because Mendoza was beautiful this time of year, 85 degrees and full of sun. We hope there is snow on the horizon, and maybe Casey will shave soon, we hope.

South America, 2010, #1

Sleeping is a mute point when excitement overwhelms. The roar of the engines, the mulling and constant motion of hundreds of people laced to different timezones, and the anticipation of arrival makes sleeping impossible so I remained awake and watched the Andes pass from 40,000 feet.

Stepping off the plane I knew I was in Argentina by the distinctive smell. The unique, pungent aroma fills the streets with a combination of cologne, empanadas, and exhaust. Each breath of this intoxicating mixture fills your lungs with a tantalizing assurance of your arrival to Buenos Aries.

Joined by Vail Resorts athletes Matt Luczkow and Casey Baskins along with cinematographer Satchele Burns and Vail’s International Public Relations representative Patrick Barrett, it was clear from the start that we were going to have fun. When we met in Dallas DFW the day before, we were all a little unclear as to what we were getting into, but our excitement carried us as we traveled through the streets of Buenos Aires trying to ascertain how just hours before we were on the other side of the planet.

Strapping ourselves into a taxi and holding on for dear life as we traveled down the four lane highway, seven cars wide, we quickly learned that just relaxing and letting things happen as they will is the best way to enjoy South America. Our accommodations at the Intercontinental Hotel were nothing short of “baller” according to Casey Baskins. Although we arrived a little under-dressed after traveling overnight, we were excited to hit the streets and explore.

After bartering with street vendors, witnessing a protest in front of the capital, and watching what to us was general chaos in the streets we went to meet some friends for dinner. Alejandro and Maria met us at a great restaurant in Puerto Madero called Cabana Las Lilas. The service was incredible and we were served the greatest steaks we have ever experienced. Overly content and filled with wine, dips and breads, we took a leisurely walk back to the hotel through the calm, quiet streets of Buenos Aires. We have a flight to catch to Mendoza in the morning.